kevin hikes

Yesterday morning, at a spot where the AT was crossing under interstate 26 between Erwin, TN and Asheville, NC, I came across a sign that pointed up a hill toward a cemetery, announcing a trail magic event. There, a trail angel named Paul Thrailkill “Silent Paul” was cooking up eggs and hash browns for all thru hikers. He does so for 10 days each year. Paul had thru hiked in 2007. He had recently retired from the Washington, DC area and relocated to Asheville, NC. He had a career as a stone mason and had spent 19 years building the National Cathedral in DC. He was so humble about his remarkable professional work.

I told him that I might like to do some trail angel work some day. He advised me to be careful, noting that the prior year he had been fined by officials from the state of NC for preparing food without proper licensure on state land. So this year he moved his operation to private land (this private cemetery), clearing it with the landowners. There is something so heartwarming about his persistent efforts to help others. Let’s  hear it for Silent Paul!!!

    

Got drenched with rain last night and today – my tent kept me dry but I had to pack it up this morning in the rain. Fortunately it was warm today as I hiked – then the sun came out at 5 pm and I quickly hung out my wet stuff to dry – now I’m all warm and dry in my tent. The hiking today was magical with fog and mist and carpets of wildflowers.

  
  
  

One of the finest creatures in the eastern forest is the pileated woodpecker. It is large and has a bright red crest – it is the woodpecker that Woody the WP is modeled after. It is secretive but I’ve seen it on several occasions. Yesterday I saw one excavating an old log lying on the ground. It had attracted a little fan club including a squirrel, a robin, and a smaller hairy woodpecker who were,apparently, interested in examining the leftovers.

Here’s the kind of work it does on dead trees. 

    

Second day in my new insoles and I think the shin splints are improving – I can’t tell you how exciting that is!!

Not only that ,I came across one of my favorite trees today:

  
The shagbark hickory – can’t miss it!!

Left Hot Springs today after consulting with the local outfitter about my pack, my pack weight, and my chances of shaking the shin splints – my pack weighed 41 pounds with 12 pounds of food and 3 pounds of water – he advised me to get the weight down to 30 – so I’ll be eating with a passion for the next couple days – when it warms up soon,I’ll get rid of some cold weather gear (the problem is that it’s supposed to go down to 20 degrees tonight).

So I’m walking slow and taking it all in.

 

   

  
   

Someone shared this REI blog link with me at dinner last night.

Junco

On my day off in Hot Springs, formerly Warm Springs, I visited the spa – for $20 you spend an hour in a conventional hot tub filled with fresh “hot spring” curative water, looking over the French Broad  River. This place has been  in use since the Cherokee people recognized its unique value. I threw in a chocolate milkshake and I think I may have found a cure for shin splints 

  
Each little wooden structure has s private tub overlooking the river

  
  
The internment camp story is fascinating…

I’d love to come back here some time. Next town is Erwin, TN in 5 days or so – hope to get a few blog posts out between now and then.

Junco

 Some of the mountains here have peaks with no trees, covered by natural grasses/shrubs. They are called “Balds”. I’ve seen several of them  recently. On an average day, I’ll reach 2-5 small mountin peaks and 1-2 of them offer beautiful 360 degree views because of the bald summits. There are several theories as to why some are bald and others nearby are covered with tall trees. All I can say is that I’m glad are bald.The one below is called Max Patch:

  

  

 

I’m in a small town in NC that is right on the AT – I actually walked from the trail right into the town – most trail towns are 5-10 miles from a spot where the AT crosses a road and to get to town you can hitchhike or look for a shuttle. 

What a luxury to walk into town!!

Staying at a historic home that is a hiker friendly B&B – the Sunnybank Inn. 

    

Just got thru the Smokies – that was a serious challenge – 8 days and 70 miles. Much of it was at high elevation and quite cold – some nights in the low twenties – having cellphone service problems and cell phone charging challenges so might not be posting for a couple days. I just offered two  of my hiking buddies my favorite salamander trail names – Hellbender and Mudpuppy. They are considering this thoughtful offer.